Last year, I got to plan something I’ve been dreaming of since I was about 15. 2023 was the year my husband and I made things official and got hitched and you know what that means…the holiday of all holidays, it was time to plan a honeymoon.
While some people dream of their wedding day, all I could focus on was the two weeks of adventure that awaited us. But the pressure to pick the perfect destination was immense; Europe felt too close to home, there wasn’t enough time to do Canada justice and classic honeymoon spots didn’t feel very us.
And then, inspiration struck. We watched a rerun of the Grand Tour as Hammond, Clarkson and May travelled across the world to Madagascar, briefly stopping in La Réunion to collect their cars. A quick Google and we were sold – La Réunion it was.
If you’re on the hunt for an epic holiday centred around adventure and that’s slightly off-the-beaten-track, Réunion needs to be on your bucket list. I’m sharing my experience of visiting this incredibly diverse island in the Indian Ocean with the hope it inspires even one person to venture away from the norm and give a new destination a go. You never know, you might fall in love with Réunion, just like we did.
Buckle up, it’s a long one.
You can skip to certain sections by clicking the links below:
Activities and beaches in Réunion
La Réunion: who, what, where, why
Embarrassingly, despite working in travel, I had never heard of the island before. As it turns out, most people hadn’t, which I suppose adds to its appeal. Located 585 miles from Madagascar, it’s undoubtedly the Indian Ocean’s best-kept secret.
Home to almost indescribable landscapes, La Réunion is an adventure-lovers paradise; the mix of outdoor activities, drop-dead gorgeous beaches, and a healthy dose of sunshine meant it ticked every single box for us.
Boasting immense waterfalls that cascade through luscious greenery, epic peaks that feel otherworldly and sunsets that will knock your socks off, La Réunion is honestly one of the best places I’ve ever been.
How to get to La Réunion from England
Nothing good comes easily, or so they say. And that certainly applies to travelling to La Réunion. Looking at various options from the UK, it quickly transpired that flying from England was going to cost an eye-watering amount. During our research, we discovered a cheat code to get us to our destination for a figure that wouldn’t blow our budget before we even touched down – jetting off to Paris and getting an ‘internal’ flight from there to Réunion.
Despite being 5,832 miles from Paris, the flight is considered an internal journey, making it one of the longest domestic flights in the world. Flying this way meant that instead of a hefty £1000+pp flight, we ended up paying about £400pp instead.
We flew with Air Austral and, I won’t lie to you, it wasn’t the best long-haul flight we’ve ever taken. The aeroplane felt a tad behind the times compared to Emirates and Etihad and the service definitely wasn’t on the same level. But it did the job and we touched down in Saint-Denis after a 12-hour evening flight. And, trust me, the view as you step outside the airport is totally worth the pain.
Where to stay in La Réunion
We only had eight nights before flying to Mauritius for our final few days so we wanted to make the most of our time. In hindsight, I would scrap Mauritius from the trip completely and spend longer in Réunion.
The island is incredibly diverse, with three incredible cirques inland and laidback beachside vibes along the coast. We knew we couldn’t fit everything in, so opted to spend half our trip in Salazie, one of the cirques, and the remaining four days on the west coast.
The best view in Salazie
I honestly don’t have the words to do justice to Salazie. Driving from the airport to our Airbnb felt like a scene from a movie; every twist and turn in the road revealed towering outcrops with thick blankets of verdant greenery. Waterfalls spouted from rugged rocks so high above us that they almost felt like they were pouring from the clouds. Colourful homes lined winding roads and little towns nestled cosily below imposing rockface. It was the kind of beauty that made you put your phone down and just marvel at how incredible the world actually is.
We rocked up to our Airbnb and the ‘omg is this real life’ moments just kept coming. Located near the island’s famed village Hell-Bourg, our home for four nights easily had the best view of any Airbnb I’ve ever stayed in. To reach the villa, we drove down a narrow track and were greeted with a magnificent waterfall that overlooked our house. I could harp on for hours but I think the adage ‘a picture tells a thousand words’ is pretty apt here…
Heading to the west coast
After our time in Salazie, we wanted to experience a different area in Réunion and enjoy the coastal side of the island. Arranging this part of the trip was tricky because we wanted to balance beach vibes with other activities, like canyoning and visiting the volcano. We ended up staying at L’Étang-Salé, Saline-les-bains, and it worked for what we wanted but I probably wouldn’t recommend it to other people. Instead, stay slightly higher up the west coast near Saint Gilles and around Plage de l’Hermitage, which are both well-known tourist areas and have gorgeous beaches, plenty of amenities and lots of accommodation options.
That being said, this location had one major draw for us – whale watching and superb sunsets. On our first evening, we ventured out to explore and I was feeling a bit bummed out by the location compared to where we had come from. My spirits were quickly lifted as the sky started to tease a sunset and we stumbled on an idyllic spot to watch the day turn to night. Beer in hand, I was content with our situation, which soon turned into pure elation as a whale breached right in front of us. We sat there for well over an hour as this happy chappy bobbed around the shoreline, fountains of water spraying into the horizon and flashes of a tail here and there.
Hotels to stay at on La Réunion
While we opted out of staying in a hotel, I did some research on the different options. So for those of you who like epic adventures in the day but to end your night in bliss at a hotel, check these out:
1) Ness by D-Ocean
Located in Saint Gilles Les Bains, this is a great choice if you want to be close to amenities and some of the island’s best beaches. With ocean views and a contemporary design, this tropical paradise is a crowd-pleaser.
Find out more here.
2) LUX* Saint Gilles
Also located on the west coast near Saint Gilles, this hotel is the perfect place for anyone looking for a touch of class. Part of the LUX Group, this 5-star resort promises to leave you feeling well and truly pampered.
Check out LUX Saint Gilles here.
3) Palm hotel and spa
Head further south for a taste of luxury at Palm Hotel and Spa. Situated near the popular Grand Anse beach, the Palm Hotel seamlessly blends into its luscious backdrop, creating a haven of peace for its guests.
Book your break here.
Activities and beaches in La Réunion
The island has oodles of options for those looking to embark on an active holiday. I could list hundreds of things to do but I’ll stick with just a few tried-and-tested activities that we enjoyed.
Visit Hell-Bourg, one of France’s most beautiful villages
Located in Salazie, we lucked out and ended up staying a mere five-minute drive from Hell-Bourg. It has previously claimed the title of France’s most beautiful village and it’s not hard to see why. Overlooking dramatic peaks and valleys, the drive to Hell-Bourg is about as picturesque as it gets. Offering an impressive backdrop, the Belouve Peak sits above the village.
Colourful buildings line the main street and everyone greets you like an old friend as you meander along. There’s a tiny square that acts as a central point and has a few shops and cafes surrounding it. We were instantly drawn to one bakery that had cheap plastic yellow furniture outside and was the kind of place you’d avoid in the UK but somehow ends up being a complete gem. We visited the bakery every morning for coffee and honey-soaked pain au chocolat, arguably the best croissant we’ve ever had.
Hikes to enjoy in Réunion
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I could walk for days. I love it. Think of me as the Forest Gump of hiking. My husband, however, is not an avid walker so we tend to compromise on the trails we do so that it’s enjoyable for both of us.
We downloaded the AllTrails app for the trip and I would recommend it to anyone looking to don their boots and hit a trail or two. It’s worth every penny and I have used it across the world without a hiccup. All walks listed below can be found on the app.
1) Hell-Bourg to Bélouve
As mentioned, we were staying about five minutes from the stunning village of Hell-Bourg and wanted to find a walk nearby. This route starts from the centre of the village and takes you 568m above sea level. It’s an out-and-back trek, which I normally avoid because I always feel like I’m being cheated out of 50% more views, however, I loved this walk and would do it again in a heartbeat. With panoramic views the entire way up, an abandoned cable car and the most immense lookout over the Salazie Valley at the top, this is well worth the effort.
You can get the full details of the walk here.
2) The bridal veil waterfall
An AllTrails special, this walk takes you to the foot of a cascading waterfall and has impeccable views of the surrounding landscape. Another out and back (yes, I know I said I hate these but here we are), the route takes you along a metal footbridge that crosses the Rivière du Mât, which was bone dry when we visited and through a watercress farm, something the area is known for.
The first portion of the trail was inaccessible and I presume will remain that way, as houses now block the starting point. Instead, we drove to Îlet Bananiers and walked from there, opting to double back along the route so we didn’t miss the bridge. A word of warning, the drive to get there was a bit hairy and I would only recommend this for extremelycompetent drivers, i.e. my husband and definitely not me.
Download the route from the AllTrails app here.
3) Piton de la Fournaise
La Réunion’s active volcano is one of the island’s most renowned spots and for good reason. The landscape as you leave the lush green valleys and head higher is what I imagine the expression ‘otherworldly’ was written about. As you get closer to the car park, the road turns into almost a dirt track that winds through land coated in red dust. It’s as close to being on Mars as you’ll find on Earth.
There’s ample parking at the starting point, washroom facilities and a tiny hut where you can buy a soft drink and a waffle. Random, I know. Head away from the car park and follow a clear stone path that takes you towards the volcano crater. There are a few different walks you can do or you can simply amble about and pretend you’re in space (guilty).
We were massively underprepared for this outing and set off far too late to be able to walk to the active crater, so I’d advise you to head here early in the morning to make the most of this weird and wonderful location. Be careful, I didn’t factor in quite how strong the rays of the sun would be and had a small case of sunstroke/heat stroke which wasn’t the most fun ending to the day – try to avoid the midday sun and take heaps of water to keep hydrated.
As always, you can find a decent walking route on AllTrails (I am not sponsored by them, they just are the GOAT).
4) Hiking at Mafate
Mafate, one of the three cirques of the island, has some incredible hikes to do, ranging from a short 5.5km walk to a five-day trek. We set off from Salazie without much of a plan and hoped to pick a trail when arrived. There are three options provided on a large board from the car park we picked, Ti Col, and we chose to go for the shorter 5.5km route which you can find on All Trails.
Unfortunately, the midday fog struck and we were unable to see further than about two metres in front of us so we had to abandon this one. These things happen with hiking and there’s not much you can do apart from accept it and enjoy the journey anyway.
Abseiling and canyoning at Grand Galet
Okay, if you only do one activity in Réunion, let it be this. The island is well known for its various locations where you can try abseiling and canyoning, so if this is your kind of thing you’ll be spoilt for choice.
We decided to go to one of the highest spots on the island to abseil from, the immense and imposing Grand Galet. Finding a company to go with was a tad trickier for us because, despite this being a wildly popular activity, there were very few companies that offered an English-speaking instructor. In the end, we went with Ciméo Nature. Our guide Matthias was lovely and did speak some English but we were lucky that a lovely French couple who spoke beautifully fluent English were also in our group.
As a group of five, we made our way along the dry river bed that transforms into a raging river in the winter months. We did a few test abseils along the route until we reached the top of the Grand Galet. There was a brief wait, as other groups descended the waterfall, giving you ample time to look over the edge and question your life choices. Soon enough, it’s your go and with no other way down, it’s time to take the plunge down the 85-metre drop. For around 70 metres you lower yourself down on your guide rope and at the last 15 metres or so, you let go of the rope and zip-line into the pool below.
It was terrifying and amazing all in one breath.
Afterwards, the canyoning portion of the day commences. For the next few hours, we jumped off towering rocks into the icy water of the Langevin River, swam underneath baby waterfalls and in general, had a bloody good time.
Whale-watching on the west coast
Seeing a whale breach just in front of me as I sipped a cappuccino is easily one of the best things I’ve ever witnessed. I can’t quite put into words how it felt to see something so magnificent.
Réunion is a great place to see whales from the shoreline because of its proximity to the ocean shelf. On the flip side, this also means it’s not a great place to swim, with the island a known shark attack spot. Swings and roundabouts, hey.
You can pay to go on boat tours and see whales up close and personal but, to be honest, you can get some great views from the coast for free. We were on the west coast and every night at sunset we were treated to nature’s greatest show, watching whales breach in front of a dancing sky.
Stargazing in the cirques
You don’t have to be a space fanatic to enjoy stargazing in Réunion. Depending on where you’re staying, you might need to head to the hills or venture away from a more built-up area to get the best nighttime views. We were lucky enough to enjoy crystal clear skies from our Airbnb in Salazie and spent a lot of our evenings lying on the courtyard floor looking up.
It might not sound like much of an activity but I promise you, it’s a magical experience and one of the highlights of our trip. Don’t believe me? Take a look at some shots I captured and make your mind up for yourself.
Epic beaches and unforgettable sunsets
Réunion might be an active place but it also has some incredible beaches. If you’re looking for a bougie day on the beach with paid-for sunbeds and cocktails on tap, I can’t help you. But, if you like good vibes and a pint, I’ve got you.
1) Relax and enjoy the rays at Grand Anse
We stumbled on this beach on our way back from abseiling at Grand Galet and it turns out it’s one of the island’s best-known beaches. Grand Anse is located on the south coast and with a long strip of sand, swaying palm trees and glistening waters, it’s not hard to see why this is a popular spot.
As well as the stunning scenery, Grand Anse has all the facilities you’d need to spend a day here: a restaurant/bar area, a smaller cafe, toilets, and a protected area for swimming (remember the whole shark thing?) Word of warning, watch out for waves knocking you into the coral. I cut my legs on some and had to get some antiseptic from the pharmacy. Coral can get badly infected, so if you do scratch yourself on some, make sure you treat it appropriately.
We stayed here for a few hours and despite it being busy, we were able to find a secluded spot further away from the masses and the space never felt crowded.
2) Sunset at Sauvage
Higher up along the west coast, you’ll find plenty of beaches with ample facilities to choose from. We visited Saint Gilles, known as a bit of a party area, and enjoyed a beer and coffee at Les Balancoires on Plage de l’Hermitage before walking further along to Plage des Brisants.
This area was more touristy than where we were staying and I’d probably recommend it over Saline-les-bains. We stopped here to watch the sun go down at Sauvage, enjoying a margarita and soaking up the ambience of the area.
3) Plage de Salines
To be honest, we stumbled on this beach by accident. We were looking for Saint Gilles but without a working map, we found ourselves guessing where we were going most of the time. We parked up in a random area with lots of cute coastal houses and walked until we found a cut-through to the beach.
I think further down there are more amenities but we managed to find a strip of beach that was completely deserted. It was a great spot to hang out for an hour or so and enjoy the sound of the waves crashing nearby. If you like beaches away from the crowds, this one’s for you.
Langevin Marine – ‘The end of the world’
Réunion is a volcanic island, so along the coast in various spots, you’ll find black volcanic rocks perched against the ocean. We visited Langevin Marine on our way back from Grand Galet and it was a nice way to break up our journey. I’d not recommend going out of your way to stop off here, but if you’re in the area it’s a cool spot to take five.
The devil’s in the detail: extra information about Réunion
If you’re thinking about adding Réunion to your bucket list, all I can say is, do it! It’s such an amazing island and the perfect place for adventure lovers to explore. Below, you’ll find a little bit more practical information on the island to help your trip run all that smoother.
Useful things to know for your trip to Réunion
Réunion’s main trade is sugarcane and rum. Across the island, you’ll see fields and fields of sugarcane and battered pickup trucks transporting the crops. We also noticed it was hard to find sugar-free drinks in Réunion and wondered if this was linked to their trade but this is pure speculation on our part.
French is the island’s spoken language with French-Creole also common. We found that despite our French being good enough on mainland France, we had ignorantly not polished our skills enough to be proficient speakers in Réunion. Most people here do not speak English at all, so be prepared to embarrass yourself a little and put yourself out there with your French skills. We found all the people to be super lovely and patient with us. It helped that British travellers are largely uncommon across the island, so people were interested in the fact we were there and, therefore, a lot more patient than they needed to be.
We used Google Translate to get by and prepared a lot of phrases and sayings to use when out and about. Despite our phone carrier (O2) stating our data plan included Réunion, we had no 4G at all, so make sure you aren’t relying on Google Translate to work when on the road.
With the above point in mind, make sure your Airbnb has Wifi. Some of the remote ones in the cirques don’t offer it as standard and we had to change where we would have liked to stay to ensure we had internet.
Getting around
If you’re looking to get out and explore the island but aren’t willing to drive, I’d probably say don’t come to Réunion. While there are public transport options, depending on your location, you’re severely limiting your experience by not having a car.
Similarly, if you don’t want to explore and are happy to just stay put in your hotel, I don’t think this is the destination for you either.
Sharks in Réunion
Fairly or unfairly, Réunion has a reputation for shark attacks. There are signs across the island at lagoons or beaches warning you of the risks, with some beaches offering protected areas to swim and others just plainly stating you are not allowed in the water at all. We were well aware of this before visiting but assumed it was a little like Australia, where locals knew the risks and swam anyway but it’s actually prohibited to swim or do watersports within 300m around the coastline.
They take this pretty seriously and we didn’t see any locals swimming far out in the ocean, so if you’re an avid wild swimmer, maybe look at an island with fewer sharks.
Entry requirements
I can’t give out medical advice but check out Fit For Travel to find out what jabs you might need. I had a lot of vaccinations done a few years back for Asia, so I didn’t need to do anything but if you’ve not travelled outside of Europe before you might need a jab or two.
Insurance is always a big part of planning a trip for me. I know a lot of people don’t bother and, for the most part, you never end up using it! But, it’s not worth the risk of not having, especially on trips where you’ll be hiking, abseiling and a whole host of other activities. Be sure to check what’s included in your policy as a lot of insurers don’t cover outdoor activities as standard.
If you’re a UK traveller, take a look at the FCO site to find out what the entry requirements are for La Réunion.
Pack your bags, Réunion is calling
Phew. That was a fair whack of information to write and, I’m sure, to read. Réunion is honestly one of the most memorable places I’ve ever been and I hope this guide has persuaded even one person to forgo the beaten path and try somewhere a little bit different. If you’re looking for a resort break, where you don’t leave the comfort of your sun lounger, La Réunion might not be the right fit for you. But if you want to visit an island whose beauty leaves your jaw swinging and offers incredible adventures, this is one destination you can’t afford to miss.
Réunion stole my heart, why not give it the chance to steal yours, too?
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